ITALIA…it’s quaint, it’s rustic, it’s historical, and it’s peaceful.
In Besnate, a small town of under 5,000, the houses are all gated and well kept. The keys used to open the houses are the old-school kind, with the detailing in the handle, a skinny body, and the teeth in a square shape on the end. They’re the kind of keys that hang off of a big ring that you see in storybooks. The bathrooms have bidets, the light switches are on the outside of the rooms, and the blinds of the windows are wooden and pulled up by a wide belt, hand-over-hand style, like a ship’s mast. The coffee cups are the size of espresso cups and they make their coffee in tiny coffee makers, where you press the grinds into the bottom, add water, and then twist the top part on. Everything is smaller and eco-friendly, from the refrigerators to the boxes of milk to the beds to the Fisher Price-like Smart cars.
THE PASTI (meals)
Breakfast is small, usually one of those tiny cups of caffe…(it’s seriously about 3 oz of coffee) and a single biscuit or pastry. If you want an American-sized coffee, you’d order a caffe lungo, and that’s as big as it’ll get. Then, you have your caffe lattes (coffee with milk), cappuccinos (coffees with frothy milk), and camomiles. Sugar is called zucherro. They have a “happy hour” which they call aperitivo, during which a drink special is served and along with that, the bar is lined with charming eats such as finger sandwiches, bruschetta, mini-pizzas, and pesto ziti. The aperitivo, a drink with a combination of spices and herbs, are supposed to whet your appetite for dinner; sometimes it’s just a special dry wine called prosecco.
The meals, lunch being the biggest, consist of an antipasti (appetizer), a primo (first course), and a secondo (second course). Then come a basket of fruits and lastly, the dolce or sweets. A table setting is never complete without olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and a basket of crusty artisan bread. For example, one of our meals consisted of an antipasti of salami, a primo of artichoke risotto, and a secondo of salad and salt-baked pesce (fish). The basket of fruits is placed in the center and everyone just helps themselves to oversized apples, pears, and strawberries, plums, grapes, and these tiny apricot-type fruits typical in Italy. And the punctuation at the end of every meal is a dainty cup of espresso or tea. Another delicious dinner menu began with the most common antipasti, a platter of artfully arranged slices of ham, proscuitto, and salami, followed by a primo of meat ravioli, followed by a secondo of baked sardines and sautéed spinach, and ending with a dolce of profiterol torte, a pyramid of crème puffs held together by a chocolate ganache…yum! It seems strange to serve only one dish at a time at a large dinner table, but the idea is to enjoy each dish and the accompanying conversation in leisure. Just don’t make my mistake of filling up on the primo only to find out that much more food lay ahead! Pacing is key!
THE STRADE (streets)
The towns are rustic and charming, usually lined with cobblestone streets and houses accented with shuttered windows and flower-lined terraces. The streets are clean and everyone uses the modest-sized garbage and recycle containers. The atmosphere is calm and people are polite. I cringed when I remembered the homeless people and cat-calling that are the norm in New York. The living conditions are comfortable in Italy, which lends itself to this atmosphere. Switzerland is the wealthiest country in the world and most people don’t even have to lock their cars.
VENEZIA (Venice)
Venice…the city on the water, the city of romance, the city of mimes, masquerade masks, gondolas, puppets and accordions, the city broken up by canals and then reconnected by bridges, the city of terracotta roofs, shutters, clay-potted plants, and adorable terraces, the city opulent in all things intricate and ornate, the city which known for its lace and glass-blowing, the city which beneath all of its tourism, is actually home to history from the days of the Doge, or Duke of Venice.
Let’s just talk about the aesthetics. Venice is hands-down beautiful. And the way that you zig and zag through the small alleyways and nooks and crannies just makes it all that more breathtaking when you emerge to view yet another bridge over peaceful waters or another gondola gliding past you or another stretch of magnificent Venetian skyline. Every house and building seems to carry its own unique design and its own character, from charming and provincial to exotic and grand. Cobblestone streets, three-tiered street lamps, piazzas, bridges, alleys, and canals are the vocabulary of this magical backdrop. It is no wonder this is called one of the most romantic cities. Of course, love makes every place memorable. But when you happen to be together on Rialto’s Bridge, you can’t resist creating that photo-perfect kiss that it is famous for. When you’re basking in the sun, at a table, canal-side, you can’t help but raise your glass of vino and saying cin-cin to romance. When you’re tucked cozily into a gondola as your striped captain steers you peacefully through the Grand Canal, you will be taking part in what is considered Venezia’s most romantic offering. When you’re sitting on the steps of one of the many piazza’s as the sun sets lazily over the water, it is only natural to sigh into your lover’s arms and wind down with the rest of the city. If you’re single like me, it’s enough to make you gag! jk! J
HISTORIA
Now, let’s talk about the history. I can attest to San Marco’s Cathedral, it’s piazza, and the Doge’s Palace.
The Doge’s Palace was where the Duke of Venice stayed, his apartment, if you will. The rooms pretty magnificent, with every wall, ceiling, and what not covered in murals and gold sculptures, and glass chandeliers. A lot of the murals are like the ones I used to study in art history, with plump ladies, plumper cherubs, leaves, halos, and fruits. A lot of the paintings signified this time of good fortune and abundance. The paintings also chronicled a lot of the history of Venice. One painting showed a regular ceremony where the Doge would marry Venice and the water. The Doge wore a very elaborate headpiece and robe and was easy to spot in all of the images.
We saw the room where all the senators used to sit and meet to discuss the governings of Venice. The chairs were wooden, like church pews, except these had separations for each seat. (Think “300,” where they gathered to decide whether or not they would reinforcements to Leonidas) And we saw where the Doge would sit. We also saw a much more somber room (Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci); the court, so to say, where the accused would be judged and sentenced. We saw exactly where they would stand and plead their case. Chances were that once you were in the judgement room, the question was more as to what sentence you would get rather than whether or not you would be sentenced.
That brings us to the prison. Beneath all this splendor lay an entire subterranean world of suffering. It was cold and smelled funny down there. We traversed through a maze of concrete cells and metal bars. A bridge connected the palace to the prison…the “Bridge of Sighs,” and prisoners could take their last peek at the outside world before entering their doom.
Vito wasn’t there to walk me through the prison, so I really don’t know much more. He was my main source of information! I don’t do audio tours or wall placards!
LINGUA (language)
The stereotype of Italians speaking loudly and with melodic inflections has truth to it! Everyone is very jolly…in their demeanor, not meaning walking around with big bellies and rosy cheeks! The fact that a lot of the words end in vowels makes it easy to end every sentence with a punch! Whether you’re saying eat! (mangia!) or good morning! (buon giorno!) or tomato! (pomodoro!), you can make everything sound exciting by hanging on to that last vowel and using some hand gestures! Here are some of my favorite words!
Mamma Mia! = Oh my goodness!
Ciao = Hi/Bye
Buon giorno = Good Day
Buona Sera = Good Evening
Buona Notte = Good Night
Come Stai = How are you
Buon Viaggio = Have a good trip
Arrivederci = Good bye
Bravo(a) = Yea!
Ancora = Again
Pronti = Ready
Fretta = Hurry
Piano = Slow
Stanco(a) = Tired
Fame = Hunger (e.g. ‘Hai fame?’ = ‘Are you hungry?’)
Mangia = Eat
Basta = Enough
Dai! = C’mon
Risotto = Rice
Pomodoro = Tomato
Patata = Potato
Finocchi = Fennell/ Gay (slang)
Caffe = Coffee
Latte = Milk
Zucchero = Sugar
Senza Zucchero = Without Sugar
Fragole = Strawberry
Funghi = Mushroom
Pane = Bread
Vino = Wine
Dolce = Sweet
Macchina = Car
Ridere = Laugh
Piangiere = Cry
Nonna = Grandma
Io = I
Lei = She
Lui = He
Sorella = Sister
Sposo(a) = Spouse
Moglie = Wife
Cena = Dinner
Scioglilingua = Tongue Twister
Acqua = Water
Rosa = Pink
Rosso = Red
Bello(a) = beautiful
Molto bello(a) = very beautiful
Bellisima = very beautiful
Piccante = Spicy
Daria and I were carrying Italiano-Inglese dictionaries around by the end of the trip so that we could try to speak each others languages! I will be e-mailing her in Italian and hope not to forget the little bit that I’ve learned!
To be continued…